NOTE TO READERS:   This IFS system was later replaced with a solid axle conversion.  But I leave this article
up for anyone who might be interested.   For more info on what happened to the old WCOR kit, including the
catastrophic breakage, click
WCOR, stands for West Coast Off Road.   WCOR is no longer in business.   I bought this
kit used from the original owner, who opted for a solid axle swap.  This page describes the
kit and gives a basic overview of the installation.

While the WCOR kit itself is not available, several other companies, such as ATS Racing
and Chaos Fab currently make similiar but newer and superior kits which can be
purchased today.  Much of what I describe in the install process would be relavent to those
kits.   See the end of this article for links to those companies.
All images can be clicked on for a larger view.
This is what the kit looked like when
it was brand new from WCOR.  Included
here were all the parts needed for an easy
New upper and lower A-arms, axles with
Lubro inner joints and axle adapters,
steering rod extenders, shock hoops, and
This is the vehicle, my WCOR original
came off of.  A 1990 4Runner V-6
automatic.  As can be seen, the
articulation is impressive for an IFS
system.   This 4Runner later underwent
a complete suspension transformation.
(bottom picture)  A solid front axle with
leaf springs was installed and the rear
coil spring suspension was swapped out
for rear leafs for better articulation.  
The 33s were then swapped out for 35s
and in the end, it was turned into one
very nice rock crawling machine.
With the WCOR IFS kit
With the new solid front axle and leaf
spring rear.
For the most part, the install was easy, although time consuming.   I ended up installing this kit
completely by myself, so it took me several nights after work to complete the initial install of the
A-arms.  However, problems that I'll describe later, caused me to take approximately 3 weeks from
start to finish to get the truck on the road.  I wouldn't anticipate any of these problems with a brand new
kit.   When I purchased the used kit, I was told the lower A-arm bushings needed replacing as did the
axle boots.   Unfortunely, the bushings truely were destroyed, but the hard part was trying to replace
them.   The original bushings were of poor quality and design and were extremely difficult to find
replacements.   The stock Toyota bushings would not fit.  I ended up making new ones from scratch and
it was this issue that gave me the most trouble with installing this kit.  However, I did also discover that
both Lubro inner joints were unexpectedly destroyed, but while disappointing, I ordered new units and
they were easily replaced.

I wish to give a word of praise to
Rockstomper and the owner Scott.  Scott is a super nice guy and took
the time to answer all of my questions regarding this kit.  I ended up ordering the Lubro joints from him
and would glady do business with him again.  He is an outstanding person and really knows his stuff
about the Toyota stock and aftermarket IFS systems.  I was truely impressed.  Kudos to Scott and his

This page won't give every install detail the install in depth, but will give a very general idea of what's involved
in the install of this and similiar kits.
All images can be clicked on for a larger view.
This is the stock suspension cycled all
the way up to show it's maximum
uptravel.  Removal of the torsion is
needed to easily jack the suspension up.  
Total up and down stock travel is 5
inches as measured from the center of
the hub
The stock suspension, right after it touched the
ground for the last time.
This is the kit as I receieved it...used.   A little scratched
here and there, but the arms were still in good shape.  
Howver, some of the rest of the kit was in need of
rebuilding or replacement.  Not unexpected after several
years of hard use.
The first step in the installation process was removing the hubs.  This was needed to allow for removal
of the axles..  I elected to rebuild the hubs while I had them off the truck.   Removal of the hubs is
really easy process......but for more in depth detailed information, this is a good site to visit: Toyota hub removal and rebuild
The first step in removing the hub is removing the hub turn handle
cap.  Very easily removed with 6 bolts.  Then the single bolt and
washers at the end of the axle are removed.
The next step is popping out the cone washers.  This is the part that
gives some the headaches.  But using a brass punch and a giving it a
good wack with a hammer usually loosens these with little problem.
Then the hub body is simply removed from the rotor.  Remember to
replace all the gaskets and O-rings before reinstalling, for maximum
With the hub body removed, the C-clip on the end of the axle can be  
removed and the axle and CV joints will easily slide out of the spindle.
Part of the hub dissassembled and ready for cleaning, regreasing and
The next step is removing the torsion bars.  The torsion bars need to removed from the upper
A-arm socket to allow for the complete removal of the upper A-arm.   To do this requires
completely removing the rear torsion bar bolt and nut and sliding the torsion bar back about 4
inches.  If the torsion bar bolt has not been removed recently, it may be extremely difficult to
undo.   In extreme cases, but not too uncommon, the bolts have to be cut off and replaced with
new bolts and nuts from Toyota.   For more information, including links with detailed removal
instructions, visit my
Torsion Bar Page.
The torsion bar removed from the upper
A-arm socket.  If not removed recently,
the torsion bar bolts can be difficult.  Be
careful not to the get the splines dirty.  
Especially if any grinding work is to
done in the area later on.
Next up, removal of the tie rod linkage.  This is necessary because the spindle, which the tie
rod connects too, will be removed later.  In addition, a tie rod spacer will have to be added to
compensate for the longer A-arms.  In my kit, the tie rods and spacer were shipped in one
piece and I just installed those.   The tie rod ends were later replaced with brand new units for
safety reasons.
Removing the inner tie rod end.  Using a press out
tool such as this one is far easier than the typical
prybar.  They are cheap and easy to use.
Removing the outer tie rod end.  Because my tie
rods were pressed in over 10 years ago, they were a
bit difficult to remove.  They came out with loud
pop each time.
With the steering linkage removed, access to
the axles and arms are much easier.
The next step involves removing the stock axles.  This process is not difficult.  Since the hubs are
completely removed, there access to the snap ring and spacer at the outer end of the axle to
prevents if from sliding out of the hub.   These must be removed.   Then the 6 bolts on each axle
which bolt the inner CV joint to the differential flange must be undone.  The axle should then slide
right out.
Remove the outer axle snap ring and
washer.  Replacing the snap ring is not
a bad idea as it could get distorted
during removal.
Once the snap ring is removed and the 6
inner axle bolts removed, the axle will
slide right out of the spindle.
The stock axle, never to power a front
wheel again.  The only usable part for my
kit would be the outer CV joint, perhaps
as a spare part.   The rest will occupy my
ever increasing misc. parts bin.
To condense this article and make downloading easier, I've seperated this article into two  parts.  
This is the end of part 1.
For Part Two, Click HERE
The WCOR and similar kits currently on the market are designed to dramaticly improve the Toyota IFS
There are numerious advantages with a kit like this.  The kit increases wheel travel from a stock 5 inches
to approximately 14 inches.  In addition, the front track is increased by a total of 4 inches  which
increases stability.  Newer kits increase it by 6 inches.  It is this increase in track width that allows the
dramatic increase in travel.   To achieve all this, completely new upper and lower A-arms were designed
to replace the stock A-arms.  Because the stock front shock system is inadequate for the longer travel, it
must be removed and a new longer shock system installed.  The wider track width also affects the
steering system and the steering linkage must be lengthened.  Finally, the axles must be swapped out for
new longer units.  This kit, as does some of the other IFS A-arm kits,  includes special new Lubro Porsche
inner CV joints.  The outer joints are stock Toyota IFS joints.  The axles are special chrome moly units
from Sommers Brothers and are much stronger than the stock axles.  The kit is rather in depth and
replaces many of the stock parts, but for the most part, is completely bolt on.  The only cutting  required.
was removal of part of the shock mount and no welding is required if the Downey shock hoop is used, as it
was in this installation.  In general, this type of kit is about as easy to install as a 4" IFS lift.  I ran into a
few problems due to the kit being pre owned and having some worn parts, but a new kit would have
installed more smoothly.    I am very impressed with this set up.


This kit later failed due to a breakage of the one of the upper A-arms. The failure was due to a design flaw in the
A-arm, however, the A-arms did last well over 3 years of hard use by the previous owner.   While I was dissapointed in
the failure and the design of this particular kit.  The overall design, of longer A-arms did prove to be exceptional.  In
fact, even though I currently run highly desired front solid axle now, I still miss the advantages that the longer A-arms
gave, both on and off road.   I still highly recommend a kit such as this for those who wish to retain IFS.  The newer
kits should prove to be much more reliable and give many years of hard off road service.
Part One